![服装设计与实战 (艺术设计与实践)](https://wfqqreader-1252317822.image.myqcloud.com/cover/826/26943826/b_26943826.jpg)
1.2 服装的造型设计
服装造型设计是服装设计思维和想象力的表现,不仅能够体现出服装的品位,更能突出服装的风格,因此服装的造型设计对服装设计起着重要的作用。如果服装过于重视细节,就会忽略外轮廓设计,会削弱服装的个性。本节介绍服装造型设计的两种造型方式:字母型外轮廓和几何型外轮廓。
字母型外轮廓效果如下所示。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-rZon6nrDWgUG1ldprRkAO278U8J3RBi3-0-138187924178e54315f94223441e7443)
A形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-4XMQGLq3NcqtuVbRCnFWHRO3bSolG6bT-0-0d40194c72e709bbc8dccd027dd14b19)
O形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-bIwIYGq1Do4yoxa4OcHpMwtjpfY875Mr-0-04da583afdaa2d4c20835ccf5839d9cb)
H形外轮廓
几何型外轮廓效果如下所示。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-9DyURrTIZgF4kIMp4d3BFumnrChC8dnQ-0-af6ec94cc56c9f171dcda6f78c7450a4)
正梯形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-EAWS9JUhhFH74qkm3VrsM85o5jFrBzug-0-6602fb9a3af24b6bfa2c4903172c7de9)
方形外轮廓
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0016_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-OC1cqxJi0ciq3BMXrTqScDftio6LJ5S2-0-d7dce5ce02746feb6386afafd7b9dd36)
倒梯形外轮廓
1.2.1 字母型外轮廓
轮廓是服装外部造型的剪裁,可以呈现出服装的结构风格及款式,给人以直观的视觉冲击,其重要性不言而喻。字母型外轮廓可分为V形外轮廓、H形外轮廓、A形外轮廓、X形外轮廓、S形外轮廓和O形外轮廓。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-yiA0p0OP2KlW9eNicEwE5d2knhDksW8P-0-82d02738fdf58c329103baf66103eacf)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-1z8tArEyiCYFqoAptQjUhQS6iOiqkjpx-0-402405049ec913f52e6ba5ba4c634607)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-NsCM9zVUoajxkj9e5oYv6mI2XviGdTKs-0-b9dc692fa657e7daeeb9d771239c0db6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-bssv6zo6aBN5TFCOyaC7O2Ur0SGaxbck-0-87fd3a8755ddc2d79ce1f14e88d02eda)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-NEcPpApwfIfSA5REaEcukbckMUZTBLPd-0-d18d40fe5bc4efeb2fe12c6bbe3019f6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-5Mvx6a6sEYQiEcbLIs2oUXfX1ZSv3f08-0-ec9d7fdaab8b9336764dd4a509474158)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0007.jpg?sign=1738898557-90kaF8TLV3bibHLlaCl0sdcotjLWVI0V-0-9bc00cf8bf06658f17af0b24b4b9d308)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0008.jpg?sign=1738898557-S5QPN6wXnCcm9mMVpyBLcyiPZcPQGHkZ-0-709fb1dbc32c6b6bba5ad3dfded470e7)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0009.jpg?sign=1738898557-hlJl8tU4s7tUHhmaIDcZ46fQ8xLTU3Wy-0-2c8144f93a58c7c6e13a2aff66bcb2d2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0010.jpg?sign=1738898557-Dq6W9wsjW2kCaVAarKMEk6wJSy9lJWL9-0-aa8fd30ada4ee02adfd97b4c359618f1)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0017_0011.jpg?sign=1738898557-5B0YmnDOfnih82ODW3GnrRApdIHL5BmA-0-428d703671df9a623150546aa68623dd)
1. V形外轮廓
V形外轮廓肩部较宽,向下则逐渐变窄。V形轮廓外形大胆,个性独特,带有阳刚之气。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-5aHpiABLx1Ja8IjkuYtWWReLxmr0vKHj-0-16f7400d2e0a7581e0be1d9527981d1f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-Teo4mFSWfaH9hASCa3olsySgaVlpd31y-0-8e88723c40346f014325ae6f30d42392)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-ll7BNt0rA9ABGpgtvjNf6W1hv0v2dTNL-0-de13103ae1ef1cccc58183e87a930ef2)
2. H形外轮廓
H形外轮廓是一种平直轮廓,以肩部为受力点,弱化了服装整体的宽度差异,能给人以简约、严谨的感觉。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-smkvYarBuYYMoUliObVW3c0h6QrIR7hk-0-736757d806a9d68a217f7c33a05f38e9)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-iiOCWJqHe9lACLeG2hBWIgQCSFM6Dcbx-0-3682d0fad176ec408b1aa4970c096372)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0018_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-yZUQiQgPAV7fAW7EjEoPyc3GquASaqSj-0-46bf3ac061342e93201738f0c6a36344)
3. A形外轮廓
A形外轮廓是一种上窄下宽的平直造型。一般这种轮廓的服装肩部较窄或是裸肩,下摆则肥大宽松;裤装则以紧脚踝、肥腿为特征。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-1IaL0yWWCKM9tK2EobvacGogYyOwTnSE-0-db858aa0649c1ae9c53b7eda8e676747)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-XKrDdTkTFDynniN6gx9YaMyVukTD3d0e-0-d5852c581d1bbde2b0020bf0a325724f)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-XaJjhYJRNFGpWD4HzsGjtukmx19VPyNL-0-50da712209f46015c7d904a9e77d59a9)
4. X形外轮廓
宽松的肩部、紧致的收腰、自然宽松的下摆是X形外轮廓的特征。该外形的服装设计最能体现出女性的优雅气质,具有优美柔和的女性风格。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-F66ll35XXegoseEsi27YTvc8DHpArcGH-0-db920660bf58eec8b2fe7acbaa352e38)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-TsF7GIenP5kbyZ2kboZfuEiL8oFju7YF-0-911e9f74894c39b0a91261522a4c7543)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0019_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-iQIAQLTpAeudqpjRf5ASfar2I11MA4Sg-0-50f24722a2126a990e3f9af25a85f92a)
5. S形外轮廓
S形外轮廓能够将女性身体的曲线勾勒得更加完美,大大提升女性最迷人性感的魅力,又可以体现出女性特有的柔和、典雅感。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-moCnJo6VQpue1707XmwRlT5qHdsJosva-0-b5d28d554fe5a0f3c1e5ce8b83ba3a27)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-KIYzKEyptnMVH4uN4xNf4qHLPghon9Oj-0-9075946ecafba900534f32cd433b1820)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-U9wT0WGaucau06ANHYo9q149yvj2vZSg-0-ba3501409943209aa96559058cd64da3)
6. O形外轮廓
上下收紧的椭圆形状是O形外轮廓的特征,呈现出丰满的视觉效果,可以巧妙地隐藏身材的缺陷,充满时尚的气息。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-M7V5hTdKdBLJMfSb2W3GoEzZLw7lDWEc-0-24c6a6b7f35549b766bb7d7c1c7d0deb)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-dveAZPN8gfAb0ZhuUbUYNjPjkRP5T4fd-0-b12f473f264ca83c2ba725cc342973fe)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0020_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-KxZLOb9sjb0uamXbFBhT48WrPCNL3XN7-0-001f4e6ed03087e4682ec7941793bbbe)
1.2.2 几何型外轮廓
服装造型是按照审美要求塑造的立体形象,是由点、线、面、体赋予的“形、色、质”组合的最终形体。服装造型以人体和人体动态为基础,由造型和轮廓两个部分构成,尤其是外轮廓和内部结构结合,呈现出一个整体的视觉形象。下面来欣赏几种几何型外轮廓,分别是方形外轮廓、正梯形外轮廓和倒梯形外轮廓等。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-jYw6QxOJwdAVfBCnvsRUffMrlg2Pc98l-0-5e1f4b376a0034fe042ce31a88af8b7a)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-JmLUb1PkgyJ7Ce3pb5ShFxlqk38pDUuF-0-0eaa3d680a8caaf09e1e9218bcc370aa)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-XmBQhPOUux0siekwLGcUUJVl9H9y3QPg-0-412d92f8d9ca21207d3a18d819f38846)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-NkdGWZXzp76hGGvkkA3GQdDEFf96jnhB-0-5ce59866ef668c81260b7553f198a16d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-4Sq7TPYSSoDOTP3LT9ha9XDi4ILnv9ho-0-2d8bf02f4d92704514190753b700558d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-F66qxvE52LQk1bei012AfPIaIA9CjYC5-0-600496a0ca6f7390f22361d2daf18b53)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0007.jpg?sign=1738898557-HnLNdFUpaKjr3GtBlt9ChoAivcRc14Tw-0-578bc08e8fc71a0a935cd82149d8a6bd)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0008.jpg?sign=1738898557-YnTkF6a7VzKw5Q4m2gOF3TewddxU12ko-0-af7eec5b1125f0f941c714a1f8f9b958)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0009.jpg?sign=1738898557-Q5QSQqRfokAM6GzzZhbHwvL1e7c9ni5w-0-9ad053c0552b01750687c9a7fd450573)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0010.jpg?sign=1738898557-BBfUTjKNiFq47B9nmZ4mowdYjXAzmumM-0-38d3ddbb9fe4e8e37bc07735f4334970)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0011.jpg?sign=1738898557-siRkNHAGeaNNFoV3eJ3wpimtL3X10ipS-0-20f6e6c51daf15f21025b316adb839d7)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0021_0012.jpg?sign=1738898557-LZ3uGggpDl6ZZ3aCEtLDw55G3uEhdXYt-0-fb841762d73161123b80729d3a72c855)
1.方形外轮廓
几何形状是一切事物造型的基础。方形外轮廓以简洁、单纯的创作手法产生极致、富于美感的视觉效果。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0001.jpg?sign=1738898557-sTzjhvVyL47f9lk9z1c1bEHHN7vQMs1g-0-6b28b50ac750b249e3e3a4cc821137f4)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0002.jpg?sign=1738898557-ty5i2tr4wHBq7daWmEx1xYHXBHESQSQS-0-7a0146420bf38108de25105c13e9f0e0)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0003.jpg?sign=1738898557-7j6e0JjxtGZqk9gIoHa0TBhZosZx9YSd-0-378a9dd7b4d67959f07382f73ee7d82e)
2.正梯形外轮廓
正梯形外轮廓将肩部修饰得偏窄,下部则有些宽松,是常见的服装款式。它具有鲜明、活泼、雅观的特点。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0004.jpg?sign=1738898557-lqon3Z2oJiAK08a35ZNoMfXdZNvgU93F-0-623e90fd417a3ff168c5aeab48674ea9)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0005.jpg?sign=1738898557-cGXAYsiAZ4Ntp0jmdjwESIMbrfE1ibJb-0-983f97df0106131d41f01234ad543d7d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0006.jpg?sign=1738898557-aTRSDletlzRQgNeaNst8Kr0dQU7GBmfx-0-e48cde53940bf0dfab235a6f82a57e53)
3.倒梯形外轮廓
倒梯形外轮廓正好与正梯形外轮廓相反,整体上宽下窄。它具有简洁、庄严、大方的特点。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0007.jpg?sign=1738898557-fAAIY7Weh4In0JGhSB9Lmdz6hFKHznvs-0-694d24cb855f86cdb74b3eff1d032197)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0008.jpg?sign=1738898557-9tgF7K5BQrW75hARZ2k0o1NocZBEOhXB-0-b3cf384cc38a3f3b21f440c87d2819c8)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0009.jpg?sign=1738898557-r9cQ7NAAE46zNZcmCoAMDfPsPcTIzRLg-0-630b41b2c74118a6a3f887326bae01d6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/40182E/15367250905335506/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/figure_0022_0010.jpg?sign=1738898557-KMEwOFOR4g278Vd4a950WkwmHXC6hvIN-0-b92d8bae7250e549ba6ff238dd1ca49f)